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	<title>Fine Antique Collector</title>
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	<description>Buy Quality collectables, silver teaspoons, silver tankards, silver teapots, or fishing books, comics etc take a look you will be surprised at what I'm offering.</description>
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		<title>How to make a quill pen patented 1809 part 7</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-7/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-7/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:44:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Seventh, and final part. To finish this important method of writing, and make it as beneficial as possible, , I&#8217;ve adopted, for the use of public offices, the law, and most static situations, such a method of supply for every person employed so they can write for any period of time with minimal charge of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Seventh, and final part. To finish this important method of writing, and make it as beneficial as possible, , I&#8217;ve adopted, for the use of public offices, the law, and most static situations, such a method of supply for every person employed so they can write for any period of time with minimal charge of the reservoir without stopping. I expect, on some occasions, when a lot of people whose job is to write in permanent situations, when the method will apply to supply a number of desks with ink from one main source, and placed on a shelf, or any elevated place,high enough to ensure the ink flows easily,  down to each desk, just like water flows for domestic uses; the main tank is inserted a small cock, where the writer can fill the fountain or handle of the pen with ease when empty of ink, as previously instructed. Also sometimes, to connect these cocks by a small flexible tube, (leather) by a screw, same as that hose pipes on fire-engines; these tubes will be long enough to easily reach any desk. The lower end of the flexible tube, is joined to the upper part, or top of the hollow handle by a screw, as the brass nozzle of fire-engines, this will ensure the pen will always fill.When the cock is closed, the ink should then not escape out of the capillary into the mouth of the pen unless forced.<br />
To ensure a smooth flow compress between the fingers part of the small flexible tube mentioned, between that is the stop cock and the pen&#8217;s top; this pressure will make the mouth of the pen be charged as required, and ensure a ample constant supply of ink in the main tank, this should ensure continuity of writing.<br />
As mentioned the small tubes need to be flexible, but not so soft that they easily collapse. Otherwise the ink will be to readily discharged down into the pen, so in order to resist this pressure, take a long slip of thin leather, cut parallel, of a required width to wrap round a small wire,  about one-eighth of an inch in diameter, and as much overplus leather so that both the edges are thinned in cutting, to over-reach each other when placed round the mandrill to make a splice. Then, on the mandrill, join the splice, the leather, with effective gum, so to form the tube; then take and wrap the outer part of the tube with wire. This should ensure they are diametrically strong enough to resist the atmospheric pressure as required, but yet flexible enough to so the extra pressure of the fingers used for filling the pen.<br />
<br />
Dated February 21, 1809.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>How to make a quill pen patented 1809 part 6</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-6/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:38:28 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Sixth. To give any pens the property the same benefits as previously described, the fountain and perpetual writing ability, I take any pen made of a quality quill, that has a air-tight barrel, if the quill is too hard  to be easily compressed by the fingers, then just simply scrape or shave off the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sixth. To give any pens the property the same benefits as previously described, the fountain and perpetual writing ability, I take any pen made of a quality quill, that has a air-tight barrel, if the quill is too hard  to be easily compressed by the fingers, then just simply scrape or shave off the part that the thumb rests on the pen, make it thin enough so that the thumb will by enough to force by holding the pen, to be changed from a cylindrical shape to an oval shape, or other. Take a small cork, or part of a round stick, that can act as a stopper, then  force into the open end of the pen above the mouth, leaving such a projection into the mouth to admit the stopper so it can be withdrawn easily.<br />
Then with a sharp knife, or otherwise, with the back of the pen above the slit, make a small groove, not bigger in size than a small pin hole, longitudinally along the surface of the stopper, this will cause the smallest channel possible to carry the ink down to the mouth when the barrel of the quill is compressed. When complete the pen the is ready for action<br />
From a small bottle, or similar, fill with ink the whole barrel of the quill, leaving room just enough to prevent the stopper from getting in contact with the ink when pushed into place. The pen is now ready to write ; so by pressing the quill, as above instructed, makes as much ink to flow through the small channel as will fill the pen; so easy and convenience the pen filling has become that it only takes half the time needed for passing the pen from the end of the line completed to start another, and that makes the pen even more convenient.<br />
I can fill either the smallest possible amount of ink, or completely fill the pen without leakage or ink getting onto the external side of the pen&#8217;s point. As always happens when the pens are dipped into a stand, so that the fingers of the writer are for ever being covered in ink.</p>
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		<title>How to make a quill pen patented 1809 part 5</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-5/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-to-make-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-5/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:33:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/?p=563</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fifthly. I now come to describe what I conceive to be as important a part of this invention as any of the foregoing, and on which its utility and public benefits will superiorly depend ; namely, a property which enables me to use those pens without the assistance of an inkstand, or any other vessel [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fifthly. I now come to describe what I conceive to be as important a part of this invention as any of the foregoing, and on which its utility and public benefits will superiorly depend ; namely, a property which enables me to use those pens without the assistance of an inkstand, or any other vessel to contain ink in the usnal way, and by which not only the time lost in dipping the pea, a waste of ink by the improper dispersion of it, will be avoided, but the ink will in all seasons, by being excluded from any contact with the outward air, be preserved in its most perfect and pure state, notwithr standing it may be ever so long kept in either hot or cold climates ; and as the ink by this contrivance is.always equally portable with the pen, it will ,afford uncommon convenience and utility to all those,professions and avocations where pens&#8217;and ink are necessary to be carried for the purpose of&#8217;immediate use. This property I produce as follows; that is to say, instead of using the common stick, or other methods of handling those .pens, as above described, J take a hollow tube, of silver, or any other metal or materials proper for the purpose, and these tubes being made taper at the lower end, and closed in a round or domical form, will effect the office of the stick, as aforesaid. I then fix the pen, (by means of a socket made to&#8217;fit as before,) of whatever class it may be formed, according to the rules already described. I then make a small perforation in any part of the tube, or hollow stick, a little distance from the point, so that when it is turned towards the centre of the pen the ink may be let down into the mouth. I then take this hollow handle, which is the substitute for the stick, as aforesaid, and its upper end being open and unstopped, I pour it full of ink, taking care to stop with the finger the capillary opening at the lower end, as above described, &#8216;and when full I stop, and make airtight, wiUi a cork, cap, or otherwise, the upper end, a.nd thus I have this tube, of whatever length and dimensions it may be, completely filled with ink ; but which, ink, on account of the air-tight state of the tube or vessel, as above, &#8216;will not, on being turned with its email end downwards, in&#8217; a position to write, discharge Vei,. XVIII.—Second Series, I. <ven even="" the="" smallest="" portion="" of="" ink="" into="" pen="" ;="" but="" in="" order="" that="" those="" who="" use="" may="" cause="" it="" to="" receive="" a="" proper="" supply,="" i="" these="" cylinders="" or="" hollow="" tubes,="" as="" aforesaid,="" be="" made="" so="" thin="" readily="" compressed="" out="" circular="" shape="" by="" small="" pressure="" between="" thumb="" and="" fingers="" which="" hold="" pen,="" whenever="" this="" necessary="" takes="" place,="" tube="" being="" lessened="" its="" areal="" dimensions,="" consequently="" is="" compelled="" ooze="" capillary="" opening="" at="" lower="" end="" greater="" more="" moderate="" fingers,="" above,="" will="" less="" charge="" pleasure,="" just="" same="" proportion,="" thus="" act="" writing="" unceasingly="" continued="" till="" all="" contained="" cylindrical="" handle="" exhausted,="" let="" quantity="" less.="" have="" proved="" experience,="" sufficient="" form="" sized="" will,="" when="" filled="" with="" ink,="" supply="" write="" most="" constant,="" intermission,="" for="" least="" whole="" day;="" many="" little,="" perform="" long="" time="" such="" charge,="" making="" ball="" upper="" extremity,="" any="" other="" part="" handle,="" capacity="" holding="" extended="" within="" jimits="" convenience="" instrument;="" whatever="" amount,="" incessantly="" written="" until="" exhausted.="" instead="" discharging="" from="" fountain="" down="" compressing="" already="" stated,="" intend,="" some="" instances,="" cork,="" kind="" stationary="" stopper="" end,="" sliding="" piston,="" like="" forcing="" pump,="" pistqn="" slided="" interior=""><br />
farce force down the ink to the pen by the hand or screw, &amp;c. &amp;c. It is necessary for me to observe here, at after a portion of the ink contained in the hollow handle, as aforesaid, has been exhausted by writing with on the compressing principle, and not having any influx of air to supply the space generated by the loss of ink, the pressure for disgorging it will become of necessity in-, creased; but to remedy this defect, when necessary, nothing more is required than to turn the pen with its handle downwards, and by which means as much air will be instantly drawn into the ink cavity, at the capillary aperture, as will restore the balance of the medium that had been destroyed by the exuding of the ink, as above stated. These I denominate compound fountain pens.</ven></p>
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		<title>How to make a quill pen patented 1809 part 4</title>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:26:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Fourth. In order to facilitate the fabrication of these pens, and to give them such a degree of truth and regular goodness in their formation as is unattainable by the use of pen-kuives, or any other kind of instrument heretofore adopted as a substitute for cutting them by hand, I take two pieces of steel, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fourth. In order to facilitate the fabrication of these pens, and to give them such a degree of truth and regular goodness in their formation as is unattainable by the use of pen-kuives, or any other kind of instrument heretofore adopted as a substitute for cutting them by hand, I take two pieces of steel, of a scantling size, of about three-eighths of an inch by two-eighths, and of about one inch or inch and a half in length, as I think it necessary. These I fix in a frame by the side of each other, having between them, on the two of their broadest&#8217; sides, a thin piece of steel, of the same size in its width, and about the thickness, of a fine watch-spring, and in its length considerably above the length of the two before mentioned pieces between which it is fixed, this I call the lancet, or that part of the intended apparatus or machine which cuts the slit, and lets down the ink in the mouth of every pen, and the point, or cutting extremity, is made of a shape I find best to answer in practice, and is sharpened with an edge both as thin and regular in the middle of the flat substance as possible, because on this regularity and thinness depends both the fineness of the slit and its centrical adjustment in the pen!s point. When these component parts are properly and accurately fitted to each other, by filing, grinding, &amp;c. on those sides in contact, and also fitted into a frame, in which they are fastened by a screw, so calculated as to either fasten, or occasionally release then, they are then ready to receive their prwper form on those ends or extremities meant to act, and form the pen&#8217;s mouth; to effect which, these ends of the scantling pieces are filed upon the bevel, or diverging from each other on the inside, so as to form an open mouth, to the extent in length up the pieces to any distance which may be found necessary for the intended purpose; so that when these pieces are again brought into contact<br />
OR<br />
on the fitting sides as before, the mouth formed will be of a triangular shape, which, when sloped or sharpened eft&#8221; on the backside, will exactly represent what is called a parting tool for carving and engraving of wood. These pieces of steel are then hardened, and properly tempered, so as to be capable of receiving and retaining » sharp cutting edge, and when that is done they are fit for use. The other thin piece of steel ab&#8217;ove described, and termed the lancet, is also sharpened in a proper form, like a chissel, or otherwise, as will best answer, and then put into its place between the Scantling pi«*ro, 9s before described^ having the extremity of its blunted cud above the top ends of the side pieces between •which the said lancet is confined, so that when the whole is fixed, as before stated, in the frame, and fastened with the screw, the lancet can be&#8217; tapped down with a hammer at pleasure, and rendered capable of a nice and accurate adjustment when applied&#8217;to use. This method of fixing the lancet between those pieces, which cuts the chaps and forms the mouth of the pen on each side of the slit, is of great consequence, and it must always cause both the chaps of the pen&#8217;s point to be exactly equal in width from the slit. This frame and pieces, as above, being thus mounted and equipped, the whole is fixed or connected to the slider or ram of a small fly-press, such as is used for cutting and stamping in the common way of other manufactures, and which I need not therefore describe. This being done, I place under the lower or cutting point of the instrument a piece of very hard wood or metal, which is made on its upper surface, facing the cutting tool, of a shape either concave or convex, like a reed or a flute, to receive the half or a segment of the quill, either with the<br />
concave<br />
concave or convex side uppermost, as I may find it best iu practice. This I call the bed or anvil on which the quill is laid when in the act of being cut and shaped into a pen, and which bed or anvil is cut, or receives its counter shape, so as to exactly correspond and fit the dotting part, as above, by a blow or cutting stroke made by the instrument itself, so that there cannot be the smallest error in their contact when in use, and which properly will cause a clear and not a ragged cut always to be made upon the quill. This bed or anvil is also fixed and held in its place by being driven tight into a horizontal groove in the bed of&#8217;a cutting press ; so that when the contact with the cutting tool shall slacken •and become blunt with use, a small blow made&#8221;by a hammer, or being forced towards the cutter a little by a regulating screw, &#8216;the next blow or cut made by the press will renew&#8217;the contact, and make good this defect ; and by this means, added to the ready manner in &#8216;which the pieces of steel which form the mouth and the lancet also may be sharpened when taken out of the frame; the engfae can be continually kept in a state . of perfection with a little trouble. When the apparatus is thus equipped for action, and the rnm or slider of the cutting press lias been limited td its motions, by a proper stop, the lancet may be so adjusted by the tapping of a small hammer as to just cut through the thickness of the substance of the quill, and no farther; and it must be bore observed, that the ends of the pieces which cut and&#8217; form the shape of the pen must be as nruch&#8217;shaptd upon the bevel as to cause the operation of the cut to finish at the point of the pen, and not at tiic. •bxn»dcrs of the point, because in the latter case the point of the lancet would have of necessity to pass as far beyond the thickness of the quill as the extra motion for finishing the mouth would require, and by which the two chaps of the pen would be distended by the thickness of the lancet&#8217;s taper form, and consequently receive such a false cut as to leave the chaps with a hair point each, lu making- pens by this instrument I do not mean in general to nib or cut the point square and clean by &#8216; the operation of cutting the mouth and producing the capillary slit, but I intend rather, when the parts of divided quills, as above described, are cut into lengths, they shall be cut both square and clean enough to answer for the point; and in which case it must be obvious, that by forcing the quill when in the operation of forming the pen a little more or less near the junction of the triangular mouth of the cutters, the width of the pen&#8217;s point will consequently be increased or diminished in its dimensions, so that by a nice adjustment in this respect I $ball be able to cut the point broader or narrower at pleasure; and by so doing I can cut pens, calculated for every kind of hand, with strict accuracy; and also by canting the bed or anvil on which the quiil rests, either to the right or left from a right angle with the centre of the cutter, I can form pens with points a little out of the square, either way, for such as are used for ingrossing, and other particular purposes.</p>
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		<title>Making of a Quill Pen patented 1809 part 3</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-3/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:17:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Third. In order to make a farther saving, not only in the article of quills but also in facilitating business, I take and divide quills longitudinally, as before, not only into halves, but in some cases, and according to the size of the quill, into three, and even four parts; and when thb is done, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Third. In order to make a farther saving, not only in the article of quills but also in facilitating business, I take and divide quills longitudinally, as before, not only into halves, but in some cases, and according to the size of the quill, into three, and even four parts; and when thb is done, I again divide these parts into lengths, and cut them transversely into two, three, four, and some into five lengths, according to the ultimate dimensions or lengths of the different sized quills. I then make, as before, a pen at each extremity of these lengths, some for large and others for small hand, at discretion; and by this means I am able to produce out of the smallest sized quills eight pens, out of others twelve, and from that to thirty (and from swan quills even more) complete pens, for small hand, drawing, and other purposes, equal in both goodness and durability to those produced out of whole quills. These pens last described I call fragment pens; and I mean to mourtt them on handles for common use in the manner described in section the second. But when they are mounted so as to be carried in the pocket, I mean to handle them variously, either with brass or otherwise; and as they may be mounted or handleu almost an infinite variety of ways, without either advantage or the contrary, I rest no. merit, or propose any claim, on whatever method I may in this branch of the manufacture think it proper to adopt.</p>
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		<title>Making of a Quill Pen patented 1809 part 2</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:13:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/?p=556</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Second. In order to derive the maximum saving in the present expensive available quills, I take any quill, whatever size and make, and alter by cutting off the extreme point, and removed the barrel from the top, as in the former case, then divide the barrel from one end to the other, by means of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Second. In order to derive the maximum saving in the present expensive available quills, I take any quill, whatever size and make, and alter by cutting off the extreme point, and removed the barrel from the top, as in the former case, then divide the barrel from one end to the other, by means of a suitable cutting instrument, exactly into two half cylindrical parts, so saving one half of every quill, and consequently I have two quills, or parts of quills, equally competent to produce pens with, only a slight reduction in quality.<br />
These half quills being thus prepared, I make, a pen at each end of both the half quills, thus making four pens out of one quill, of equal use to those made from whole quills in the usual way. These pens I call treble compound pens, and mount them for use on handles, either on one or both ends. These sticks are bought precisely similar to those already described, a little taper at one/both ends, and to one/both of which taper ends is slipped on a socket, made either of the barrel of a quill, silver or other metal, and on each socket is fixed a taper, and made to fix the stick so as to admit it, to project before the extremity of the socket about one eighth of an inch, so that when the stick or handle is withdrawn a little out of the socket an interstice is made between the socket and the stick of the thickness of a quill&#8217;s substance; then the pen consisting of the half quill as before, being put into &#8216;the socket with a proper projection of the point before it, and the stick, being forced forward, will, by its taper form, completely fasten in the pen, and render it fit for use with the projecting point; aud which point, when dulled by use, may, by withdrawing the stick, as above described be replaced by the pen at the other end, and thus by one quill instead of two, as in the first section, the same benefit and convenience is produced.</p>
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		<title>Making of a Quill Pen patented 1809 part 1</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-1/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/making-of-a-quill-pen-patented-1809-part-1/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 10:07:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Vintage pens and pencils]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/?p=553</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After a lot of searching for the earliest documented method of making a quill pen I came across to applied and received patent from way back in 1809. It&#8217;s a bit long winded so I&#8217;ve shortened it somewhat without I hope losing any of the substance of the narrative.
I will do it in 7 posts
Specification [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After a lot of searching for the earliest documented method of making a quill pen I came across to applied and received patent from way back in 1809. It&#8217;s a bit long winded so I&#8217;ve shortened it somewhat without I hope losing any of the substance of the narrative.<br />
I will do it in 7 posts<br />
Specification of the Patent granted to Joseph Lin Amah, of Pimlico, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer; for a Method of making and construction of Pens for writing with.<br />
Dated September 23, 1809.<br />
First. I take the quill of a swan, goose, or any bird from which pens can be made; cut off the point, to prepare for slitting. I then sever the barrel of the quill from its top as near the feather part as the quill will admit making a clear and good slit. Then slit with a suitable knife, both ends of the barrel of the quill, to make at each end a complete pen, from one quill thus saving a considerable amount of money, and not wasting valuable resources.<br />
I also want to adapt a handle to these pens, a straight round stick, which, being a little taper at the end below the hand, may be easily placed into the cylindrical part of the quill which is left whole between the two pen points, so the pen when worn and blunted by use at one end, can be quickly taken from the stick and the other end inserted. These I call the first class of compound pens; sometimes I intend to prepare the handles with a taper point, as above described but at both ends, so that by fixing a single compound pen at each end four complete pens made, these can instantly be reversed, when they become worn, these are called double compound pens.</p>
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		<title>How early pocket watches are powered</title>
		<link>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-early-pocket-watches-are-powered/</link>
		<comments>http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-early-pocket-watches-are-powered/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jan 2010 12:47:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Selling Pocket Watches]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/?p=535</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In pocket watches, the power is obtained by a spring called the main spring, which is enclosed in a box called the barrel. Now there are two distinct ways of applying the power of this main spring to the first wheel of a watch ; one of them consists in the intervention or agency of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In pocket watches, the power is obtained by a spring called the main spring, which is enclosed in a box called the barrel. Now there are two distinct ways of applying the power of this main spring to the first wheel of a watch ; one of them consists in the intervention or agency of a fusee, which is put upon the first wheel ; in the other, the first wheel is put upon the barrel itself that contains the spring, which arrangement is distinguished from that having a fusee by the term &#8216; going-barrel.&#8217; Watches having going-barrels are wound up by turning round the barrel arbors ; and watches</p>
<div id="attachment_537" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 260px"><a rel="attachment wp-att-537" href="http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/2010/how-early-pocket-watches-are-powered/pocketwatch-2/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-537" title="pocketwatch" src="http://www.fineantiquecollector.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/pocketwatch1-250x241.png" alt="" width="250" height="241" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">How early pocket watches derived their power</p></div>
<p>having fusees, by the fusee arbors. My invention consists in a new mechanical arrangement, applicable to the winding up of horological works. First, as respects what is termed a going-barrel, the following are the contrivances that I nave invented as applicable thereto : Fig. 1 represents a watch with a goingbarrel, to which my invention is applied ; in which figure a part of the dialplate is represented as broken away, for showing the novel parts, the operation of which will be understood by first describing the separate figures, 2, 3, 4, 5. 6, 7, 8, all the same letters of reference in which refer to similar parts.<em>Fig. </em>2 is the barrel ratchet with its click and spring, which keeps the maintaining power up ; this ratchet is put on the barrel arbor, which is squared, and the plate is sunk in which it ¡ays—it is on the side of that part of the plate under the dial ; this barrel ratchet is sunk or turned out as fur as the teeth to receive another ratchet with its click and spring, shown at <em>a, Fig. </em>3, which I call the recoiling ratchet. This recoiling ratchet is fastened on to the barrel pulley 6 ; the upper side of this barrel pulley is sunk to receive a spring, shown in <em>Figs. </em>1 and 5, which is the recoiling spring ; on the edge of the barrel pulley there is a groove to receive a chain <em>d, </em>shown at <em>Figs. </em>1 and 8, which is hooked on a nin in the said groove. <em>Kg. 1 </em>gives a perspective view of the stud which keeps the barrel pulley steady and close to the barrel ratchet ; the centre of tinstud is round, and the centre of the recoiling spring is hooked on to it ; the other end of the recoiling spring is hooked on the barrel pulley. <em>Figs. </em>1 and 8 show the impendent, made of the same metal as the case ; it turns freely on a piece of steel <em>ej, Fig. </em>8 ; this steel arbor has a small knob on one side, Л, shown at <em>Figs. </em>1 and 8, to prevent the impendent from slipping off; on the other end it is split to receive the end of the chain which is pinned on ; the pendent of the case is perforated, through which the chain passes. I shall next describe the manner it is to operate, and how it is to be put on the winding up arbor. When the barrel ratchet before mentioned is put on the square arbor, the recoiling spring ¡a put on the barrel pulley, and placed over the barrel ratchet, so as to act on its click ; the chain, which is no longer than to produce one revolution of the pulley, is put through the pendent, and hooked on to the pulley : the stud is then hooked on to the recoiling spring ; by this stud the recoiling spring is set up one turn, more or less, and the stud is screwed on the plate. To wind up the watch, the impendent is drawn from the pendent as far as the chain will permit it ; the recoiling spring will bring the impendent back again to the pendent ; and this operation is repeated till the impendent remains on the pendent, and cannot be more drawn from it, which indicates that the main spring is wound up. When the works are to be wound up by a fusee arbor, the ratchet, which keeps the maintaining power, is on the fusee itself; the fusee arbor, squared, is on the same side of the plate as the goingbarrel under the dial. The recoiling ratchet, <em>Fig. </em>4, is put on the fusee arbor ; its click and spring are on the barrel pulley, <em>Fig. </em>6. Here it is to be observed, that when any works are to be wound up by a fusee, the fusee with the first wheel and its arbor returns back again, which is not the case with a goingbarrel. <em>h </em>is the relieving click, which has a double action ; first, it acts as the recoiling click, by its action in the ratchet ; secondly, it acts as a reliever of the said click ; it is planted on the under side of the barrel pulley, <em>Fig. </em>6, with its spring, and must be made in the form shown in the drawing. That part wluch is near the edge of the barrel pulley has a small pin, which pin goes through an aperture of the barrel pulley into the groove where the chain lies. When the works are wound up, the impendent rests upon the pendent, and the chain lays round the pulley, which is the same as with the going-barrel. <em>The </em>pin of the relieving click, which goes into the groove of the barrel pulley, receives a pressure from the chain ; it brings the click part out of the ratchet, and gives free action to the ratchet on the fusee arbor to return back again without any drag or incumbrance of the click. /, <em>Fig. </em>1, is the finger touch : it is made of gold, or some metal which will not rust. By referring to the drawing, it will be seen that it is a kind of cup with a milled edge, and the minute-hand is fastened to it : when the hands are to be set, a slight pressure with the end of the forefinger is required to turn the hands. In case it is desired to have a watchor clock wound up in one pull, the multiplying of the turns of the chain round the barrel pulley will have that effect.<br />
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